“To go or not to go, that is the question.”
They were driving down a highway toward Tanzania’s Ruaha National Park, filled with anticipation of their impending safari. Something stirred in the bush up ahead, but it wasn’t an animal. It was a lone man, with a wild look in his eye.
With impala-speed, the man leapt onto the road, blocking their path and forcing them to a halt. Before they understood what was happening, a gun was pointed at the driver’s head. Acting on instinct alone, the driver stepped hard on the gas and the vehicle teemed forward. But not before a bullet was unleashed from the gun, flying past his ear and plowing a hole into the seat upholstery.
It was only once their adrenaline settled that they were able to process what their encounter meant: Tanzania was dangerous. They had to get out of this deep dark African country as soon as possible, and it was their duty to warn others not to travel there.
We were one of the couples they warned. Traveler friends we’d met on the road, they shared their horrifying true story with us, and urged us not to go to Tanzania.
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| Somewhere along the Tanzanian roadside. |
I admit to faltering at this point. Fear clouded my mind, and I second-guessed our travel plans. Should we go to Tanzania? Or should we avoid this goliath of East African countries? I wanted to see Tanzania, but I didn’t want to get shot at.
It was Bruno – ever the bearer of simple yet practical wisdom – that reaffirmed my resolve: “The same kind of thing happens in Paris every day. In New York, too. Probably even in Moncton, your little hometown.”
Of course, he was right. He didn’t even know how right he was, for a few months later, a crazed Monctonian youth shot and killed several policemen, putting my little hometown forevermore on the map.
So we went to Tanzania – twice – despite warnings from our travel friends. We traveled cautiously, of course, taking special care in towns and avoiding evening and nighttime travel. But the point is that we went – and thank goodness we did. It ended up being my favorite country of all those we have visited since the beginning of the year.
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| Our sunset boat cruise on Lake Tanganyika. |
From the tropical, humid coastline to the peak of snowy Mt. Kilimanjaro, with tropical rainforests, deepest of lakes, and savannahs in between, Tanzania is a massive country with incredible geographical variety and beauty. Where else can you swim in an ocean, climb a snowy mountain peak, safari on the plains, wade in deep fresh water, and hike on verdant hills, all within the borders of a single country? As outdoor enthusiasts, we were spoiled for choice.
Tanzania is not only rich in landscape, however. It is rich in people, history and culture. Ancient Arab roots run deeply here, manifesting themselves in the conservative dress of the people, the mosque calls resounding in every village, the chapattis and chaireadily available on the street, the hospitable people, and the Arab-influenced language of KiSwahili spoken throughout the nation. Colonial influence still dots the landscape, showing up in the straight wide city roads, majestic Victorian train stations, countryside plantation mansions, and white Tanzanians hidden in gemlike pockets of land.
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| Walking along the edge of Lake Nyasa in Matema. |
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| Arab-influenced dress. |
But perhaps it is the post-colonial period that gives Tanzania its most unique flavor. Julius Nyerere, Tanzania’s first post-independence president, urged his countrymen to align themselves to one country and one language, instead of dividing themselves along tribal lines. Whereas other African countries still exude [often violent] tribal tensions, Tanzanians declare – in KiSwahili, of course – their national identity first, their tribe second. Because of this, peace, unity and brotherhood pervade.
Tanzanians are proud of their Tanzanianness, and they teach pride to their children in a way seen nowhere else in East Africa. The way they master their language, carry themselves, do their work – it’s all brimming with pride. Kids are even scolded if they beg from mzungu, or approach us too closely. They are taught a respectful distance of foreigners. It’s refreshing, and makes the people of Tanzania uniquely likeable.
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| Chipsi Maayai. |
Despite all that distinguishes Tanzania from its neighbors, it was, by no means, an easy country in which to travel. The roads were often horrendous, making the journey through this vast country painfully long and uncomfortable. National Parks were expensive and therefore off-limits to us. The towns lacked big chain supermarkets, forcing me to scrape meals together with time-consuming visits to countless tiny foodstuff shops and open-air markets. Transactions invariably took place in KiSwahili, which made bargaining nearly impossible.
But because of these difficulties, we saw much of the countryside, authentic glimpses of a Tanzania untouched by tourism. Our food cost less in local markets and shops, and we were able to participate in the day-to-day life of the local people. I even inadvertently learned quite a bit of basic KiSwahili!
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| Dirt roads, everywhere. |
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| Buying vitambua in the local market. |
Challenging travel is good travel, I’ve learned over the years. Stepping out of your comfort zone allows you to experience a place more fully, and invariably creates lasting memories. In Tanzania, we have so many that it was impossible for me to choose only five moments for my List of Top Five Tanzanian Highlights. It’s now seven memories long:
1. Swimming in the warm deep blue water of Lake Chala, surrounded by nothing but sykes monkeys munching on figs, while we waited for Mt. Kilimanjaro to reveal herself.
2. Snorkeling off the coast of Tanga, complete with a private dhow boat ride and a gourmet lunch on a deserted sand island, all for $15!
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| Our own private snorkeling trip on a Tanzanian dhow off the coast of Tanga. |
3. Entering true Maasai territory, where almost everyone walking along the side of the road was tall and lean, dressed in red, and donning walking sticks or sparkly jewelry.
4. Sunset boat-cruising on Lake Tanganyika, where we bird-watched in the river, gazed at the sun setting behind the mountains of the Congo, and watched an ominous storm brew in the sky.
5. Hiking in the Usambara Mountains by day, watching the sunset by evening, and then feasting on cheap and delicious home-grown farm food by night.
6. Discovering cheap local Tanzanian delicacies, like chipsi mayai (a French-fries omelette) and vitambua, a slightly sweet, moist rice cake.
7. Walking along Lake Nyasa (Lake Malawi) and seeing how the local people use the water as their bathroom, kitchen, and laundry room.
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| Watching the setting sun from the top of an Usambara mountain. |
Fear can be paralyzing. It stops many from following their dreams, finding love, seeing the world, or even leaving home. Fear had stopped me from experiencing Zimbabweas fully as I should have, and it almost stopped us from visiting Tanzania.
To go or not to go, that is the question. Thanks to Tanzania (ok, and Bruno a bit, too), I can now answer this Hamlet-esque traveler’s dilemma with confidence:
Go. Always go.
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| Ahh….. this is the life… |
