Oh, to see baobabs, banana trees, and coconut trees again. To once more hear the distant muezzin calling the faithful to prayer. To feel the familiar enveloping humidity of the air, and smell the salty ocean breeze. To taste the creamy, tropical flavors of custard apple and coconut yet again.
We have, at last, arrived on the Kenyan coast.
From Nairobi to Mombasa is 500km along Kenya’s best and busiest highway, but we took three traveling days to drive it. “Pole, pole” – “slowly, slowly” – as they say in Kiswahili. For though we had been longing for the coast since our Kampala departure, we wanted to savor the journey. We don’t have to rush, as most tourists do, for we are blessed with the gift of time.
And so, we stopped back in Voi, where we had spent a couple nights staring at red elephants at the Red Elephant Lodge in July with Lulu. This time, no luck (though not for lack of trying) – so soon after rainy season, the eles have their choice of watering holes so don’t venture to the edge of the park to “our” water hole. At least we heard another playful rendition of “Jambo Bwana” by the same local guitarist at the dinner buffet. It’s fun to revisit familiar places!
.jpg) |
| “Jambo Bwana” is Kenya’s most famous tourist song |
Our plan was to transit in Mombasa as for as little time as possible, longing for the Temple Point Resort in Watamu, where we also had some happy July-Lulu memories. But when we arrived at Jumuia Conference Center and Resort, some 15km north of Mombasa, for our one-night transit, we found a nice beach, a peacefully deserted swimming pool, and a nice shady tree to camp under. “On a été scotché!” said Bruno – meaning we got stuck, like scotch tape. Six nights passed by in the blink of an eye, mostly spent walking the beach, reading by the pool, and buying and eating mangoes and pineapples by the kilo at the local market.
.jpg) |
| making myself comfortable at the swimming pool at Jumuia Resort |
.jpg) |
| Look at what we bought for $4 at the local market! |
As I recalled from Tiwi Beach (south of Mombasa), the beach surrounding this ancient port is unique. Yes, there is the white sand, coconut trees, and turquoise water you’d expect from any tropical paradise. But enter the water and you stumble upon a coral wall that juts out almost a kilometer into the ocean. Because of the coral, it’s only possible to swim off the beach at high tide, and even then it’s difficult to find a deep enough spot for a good swim. However, the coral wall makes for very interesting beach walks.
One afternoon at low tide, Bruno and I decided to walk all the way to the end of this coral wall, to the waves we could see off in the distance. These waves mark the beginning of the descent of the coral wall into the ocean as such. I was happy to make use of my water shoes for this walk – thanks mom! – because the ground was in places mushy and sea-weedy, in others rough with coral, and everywhere full of sea urchins. Thankfully we found a sort of clear path that took us most of the way out to the waves, so the walk out was pleasant.
 |
| Bruno being goofy, as always, on one of our beach walks |
We wandered among a few local fishermen, bright red star fish (as well as a Kenyan variety with small bodies and long, gangly limbs jutting out of holes in the sand), and sea cucumbers (strange snakelike creatures without real heads).The coral was mostly dull-colored and dead, doubtless a result of the countless fishermen (and tourists) that trod upon the reef. Off to one side were a few colorfully dressed women, bent down from the waist, bums unselfconsciously waving in the air, searching for some desirable sea creature unknown to me. In the deeper pools were men with fishing nets or scuba masks trying to catch tonight’s meal.
Busy staring at the sea creatures and sea-people, we somehow lost the urchin-and-coral-free path back to shore. The tide began to come in, and I was suddenly possessed by a panicked feeling of being trapped in a maze, clock ticking away while I desperately tried to find the path to the exit. Afraid of the urchin and not wanting to step on and break the coral, I doubled back and forth, searching for the best way to shore. Poor Bruno must have thought I was loony to be so afraid of creatures that don’t attack (they don’t even really move much!), but he patiently doubled back with me, trying to show me possible paths to “safety”.
Finally, after what seemed like hours, we made it back to the beach. Glad to be on solid ground, I headed once again for my favorite spot at Jumuia – the swimming pool! I had already clocked many hours here, sometimes swimming laps in order to earn my hours lazily reading book after book in the water or by the shade of a tree. I always say that I do my best reading by (or in!) a pool. In the afternoons, James the pool attendant would bring me a coconut that had freshly fallen from a tree. Adeptly, he would rip off the outer shell against a stick planted into the ground. Then, with a simple table knife, he would crack open the coconut, let me drink the sweet nectar, and with a few quick strokes, pull off all the meat inside. I’d eat some, and (of course) save some for Bruno, as well as our morning fruit salad. Yummy!
|
| Bruno joins me for a late morning swim |
I just told Bruno that, yet again, I’d written more than expected in my blog entry, which was surprising since we had done nothing really. “We didn’t do nothing!”, he responds wisely. “We did the most important thing of all – relax!” And he’s right. On the coast of Kenya, Bruno and I relaxed fully, without feeling guilty about being unproductive or self-indulgent. We did much good to our bodies and minds at Jumuia Resort, taking care of our health and happiness. Surely something so important as that is worth blogging about!
|
| the happy and very relaxed newlywed couple! |
