Mozambique – for some, the name might conjure up images of civil war, dire poverty, guerillas warriors hiding out in jungles; but for me, Mozambique will forever more be associated with images of pristine turquoise beaches with smooth white sand, coconut and banana trees lining the coast, unspoiled islands, coral reefs teeming with fish, traditional dhow fishing boats, and warm sunny days which blend into one another.
I went on this trip with my Cape Town tour guide and friend, Rory. He and I are completely different in our travel styles, but he agreed to humor me on this trip. This meant an 11-hour road-trip from Harare to Vilanculos, Mozambique, and a week of camping and self-catering. Rory gave it all a fair try, but on day 3 he ate at a restaurant and it was all over from there – I was now catering for one. Ah well, I find great pleasure in getting up in the morning, hopping out of a tent, lighting the gas burner, and drinking a cup of tea as I fry some eggs and enjoy the morning unfolding before me. I think I found my love of camping this year in Africa!
On my first morning, I headed straight down to the beach to check it out. Although this particular section on the beach had a bit more glass than I cared to see, I took an immediate liking to it. The tide was low, and I walked from sand bar to sand bar, watching the hermit crabs and minnows caught in the shallow, sun-kissed pools. It reminded me so much of my own beach in New Brunswick that I instantly felt at home.I sat down to read a book, and was approached by a few locals selling their wares. Generally, I wave these types of people off immediately, but I guess I was in a chatty mood, so I talked with Danielo and August for a while. Perhaps surprised by my kindness, I received gifts of coconuts and oranges, as well as a promise to hook me up with a cheap dhow boat ride out to the archipelago islands of the Bazaruto National Marine Park.
Lucky me! While most people paid roughly 2000 meticals (about $60) for a full day boat trip to an island (with snorkeling and lunch), I got TWO trips for about half that! That, in addition to the camping, self-catering, and driving made this trip one of my cheapest yet! Anyway, back to the island trips. I saw two islands – Bazaruto (the most popular, for its large sand dune), and Margao, a smaller and closer island. I felt so blessed to be able to see the islands in the way I did – I was on a local boat, sailing slowly along, feet dangling off the edge of the boat, catching glimpses of jellyfish, devil rays, and dolphins, while other, faster boats jetted along, only to be quickly herded from one place to another in a quick and efficient fashion. I snorkeled in two different reefs and saw every color of the rainbow below the sea. The highlight, however, was the islands themselves. On Bazaruto, I climbed the humongous sand dune, which allowed me to see a 360 degree view of the island and the surrounding water. I walked along the water, seeing crabs scurry ahead, and swam in the refreshing turquoise water. On Margao, I was able to walk around the entire island in three hours. The tide was low, which allowed me to walk far out into the distance, following the edge where the water washes onto the shore. A storm was brewing off in the distance, adding an ominous edge to this sand-dollar and driftwood-filled island. Words cannot express the ecstasy and freedom I felt during my island trips. Rarely have I ever felt quite so truly alive and at one with the sea and breeze surrounding me.
As always, it was the people – even more than the islands – that made the trip. I met a funny Chinese guy named Jin, who barely spoke English and was therefore shy to befriend me at first. However, when I told him I used to teach Chinese ESL students who spoke just like him, he quickly came out of his shell. He had been traveling solo in Africa for two months already as part of a one-year Africa trip, and I think he was thankful for the company. A brilliant photography and an excellent cook, he treated me to locally caught crab one night (I couldn’t say no) as he regaled me with the hilarious story of buying a chicken off a local family and cutting the head off himself – “Chop chop chop!”
Another man, Bruno, from France, was even more interesting. Having just completed a fourteen-year trip around the world in his Toyota truck (with a cell on the pickup – don’t worry, he had a bed, sink, etc!), he was back in Africa to start his second tour. This man epitomizes everything I believe and value – and he’s living it! He was so awe-inspiring that I think he deserves his own separate blog entry – who knows, maybe it will inspire you too!Mozambique – a gorgeous country rich with natural and linguistic beauty, and a symphony of the senses. If I close my eyes, I can still smell the sea, feel the light, warm breeze, taste the coconut water and coconut sunscreen on my sun-kissed face, hear the muezzin calling and the women singing in boats or on the beach, and see the dhows bringing in their daily catches to the busy fisherman market.
