My preconception of Delhi was not good. Based on all I had heard in Kathmandu, I expected a congested, polluted city, thieving, womanizing people, and scorching heat. And perhaps if I had REALLY delved into the city, I would have experienced that. But, sheltered (from the moment I left Kathmandu) within the Tibetan community, I felt strangely at ease in this foreign city.
I arrived in Majnu-ka-tilla, a Tibetan settlement to the North of the city, after a BRUTAL 40-hour bus ride from Kathmandu (remind me to make a lot of money in the future so that I can FLY between cities!!). Doka and I managed to locate one another and had an afternoon of catching up. Since I last saw her in June (when she visited me in Kathmandu), Doka had traveled all around northwestern India visiting relatives and then taught English at her uncle’s monastery in south India for 2 months.
In the evening, we went and picked up Kaoruko at the airport. She is a Japanese friend from college, who graduated in May and is now living back in Tokyo, preparing for her upcoming career as a journalist. It was a great surprise to find out only one week before that she would be visiting us in India, but it was also a great delight -and a great, albeit random, Lake Forest College reunion!
That night, there was a huge party to celebrate his Holiness the Dalai Lama’s recent Gold Medal Award from the American Gov’t. So despite my great fatigue (2 nights on a bus, excuse me!), we went to the party. Actually, our intention was to eat for free (I’m on a MAJOR budget here), but when we arrived, Kaoruko ended up starting a dance party (which, if you know Tibetans and Tibetan parties, you know that nobody ever dances, cuz if they do, EVERYONE watches, whispers and gossips).
After a shower and a good night sleep, the three of us were feeling ready to spend the day in Delhi. I went to pick out some fabric and bring it to a tailor so he could make me a chupa (traditional Tibetan dress) for me to bring with me to Dharamsala.
The highlight of the day was definitely having a delectable south indian-style lunch with Doka’s uncle (The monk whose monastery she had stayed at). Not only a friendly and humble man, but also a very important monk – in fact, so important, that he has been put in charge of a development and education project by none other than the Dalai Lama himself! What a fascinating afternoon chatting with him!
When we returned to our hotel, we cleaned ourselves up and headed for the travel agency where we had booked ourselves bus tickets to Dharamsala. When we arrived, we were informed that the bus had been canceled (there were only 5 passengers – us, and two friendly Tibetans), but that a car had been hired at no extra cost. Great! Except for the fact that the driver was not going to be able to come until 10pm (rather than 5pm) because he had some other commitments. We thus busied ourselves with dinner and internet and returned to the office just before 10pm. And we waited. And waited. And waited. The stupid shady driver left us waiting until 1am, by which time the travel agent had (thankfully) hired us another car. Thus, now 8 hours late (a constant theme while traveling in India), we departed on the 13 hour ride to the hill station (and Doka’s hometown) of Dharamsala.