If you’ve been following Wandering Footsteps over the past several months, you know that my parents – who had bought an RV a couple years before – decided to follow us to Mexico for the winter. I mean, we had their grandson, so it was sort of a given. What I haven’t mentioned before is that, as Canadian retirees with little international RV travel experience and a whole lot of influence from friends, family and the media, they were pretty nervous about venturing into Mexico.
We were with my parents, on and off, throughout their time in Mexico, and I found it so interesting to hear about their impressions of this foreign country. Since I have traveled to 50 countries and lived abroad for the better part of 14 years, I’ve stopped noticing many of the cultural differences, challenges, and enigmas that my parents kept bringing up during their months in Mexico.
I thought it would be fun to have my first-ever GUEST POST on the blog – my own dad, writing about his overall impression of his 5-month RV trip to Mexico, and whether or not he would return.
MEXICO…TO RETURN…OR NOT
That was the ‘burning’ question my wife and travel partner, Beth, and I were carefully considering as our travels through this ‘enigmatic’ country approached the end. After almost five months in our 27‘ Freedom Coachman RV exploring and savouring this country of contrasts, uncertainty and frustration, yet delight, beauty and awe…
Should we drive our RV back to Canada and make new plans next winter, or should we store it in Mexico and plan to return to Mexico – and our daughter and her family?
The question of going to Mexico in the first place was also not without careful consideration and forethought…people at home were not hesitant in asking us why Mexico? Were we worried about safety? Were we crazy? Crazy, NO; worried, mmm maybe!
When we first crossed into the US from Canada, we were queried about our final destination. “Mexico!” replied the Immigration & Customs official… “don’t you know it’s a war zone? I should know, I worked there.” My wife and I couldn’t believe what we were hearing. “Are you bringing any protection?” he further inquired. A clever way to ask if I was carrying a gun, I thought. When I took my turn as the interrogator, asking what type of protection, he exclaimed “prayer, of course… surround your RV with prayer and you will be okay!” Beth was now wondering out loud if we were doing the right thing. What if Mexico was, in fact, unsafe? She almost demanded that we return right then… but we continued on, despite our shock and trepidation.
Our travels in Mexico were not without difficulty and annoyances…ongoing RV mechanical problems (no fault of Mexico but the ubiquitous topes – speed bumps – and broken pavement didn’t help matters), at least three road stops and hassles by annoying police on motorcycles (perhaps looking for easy money), language challenges, a murder/execution of an aquaintence of Bridge friends we were visiting and fuel shortages created by cartels who brazenly siphoned gas from the government-owned pipelines.
The fuel shortage created some real issues including two days RVing at a Pemex, Mexico’s government owned gas station, waiting for fuel; and, worse yet, a con job at a Mexico City station.
After waiting our turn in the gas line for one hour, the lady attendant, in Spanish, said it was cash only, that the credit card machine was not working. “Not a problem, just fill it up” I said, leaving her to the task. Stopping at $1386 pesos I gave her $1400 and asked for more. Returning to see $1406 on the pump I went to retrieve the extra pesos. When I handed the final coins she asked where the rest of the money was.
And so the argument started…in Spanish! “I already gave it to you”, was my response and her denial followed quickly. Much heated discussion followed with manager getting involved; neither could speak English and my Spanish was not up to the task. I threatened to leave but my wife stopped me. A young Spanish man came to our aid as a translator. I asked him to translate a solution to the dilemma by having them calculate the amount of gas she pumped that day against the float she started the day with and what was in her pocket…if she was out $1400 I would pay, if even I’m on my way. They claimed not to understand this suggestion but, alas, there was a camera that caught the transaction. “Great!” I said… but I wasn’t allowed to view it; not my property! So, getting nowhere in this problem, with exasperation and just a little testosterone I rapped my fingers on the manager’s chest and said in Spanish “ You are lying as a team and this is what gives your country a bad rap!” The incident ended with me paying… a second time… this time with my credit card!
Our travels were not without the expected and frequent approaches by hawkers of edibles, umbrellas and trinkets while attempting enjoyment at a beach, the elongated process to cross the US/Mexico border, the efforts required to guard against dysentery caused by uncertain water quality and the constant night-time noises … dogs barking all night, Mexicans playing their choice of music or persistent loud fireworks.
Those same fiesta-loving Mexican people are in no hurry and are not governed by schedules or appointments! In Mexico full-serve laundry stores are common but a 10am opening might mean 10:20 as it did for me one day. I had an 11am car appointment only to get a call at 11:30 saying they were still awaiting parts but I should come at 1pm (the parts showed up at 2pm!). That maniana mentality caused this Canadian a few more gray hairs.
But those same confounding Mexican people were friendly, helpful and very content to enjoy life, the great outdoors and the many, many places to eat. A number of times a Mexican person came to our aid, helping us with directions or communication…and one time, a young man even got up from his bus seat and offered it to my wife!
The food was fun, tasty and flavourful; if not spicy and hot! I didn‘t know you could do so many things with corn, beans and flour. The markets were exciting, busy and noisy as merchants called out their prices.
The scenery… well, it was simply magnificient and breath-taking. The ruins and volcanoes, the Sierra Madre mountains and the proliferation of cactus species, he mountains with their precipitous cliffs and winding roads were prodigious and disparate. Incredible beauty in juxtaposition with squalour – beautiful mountain vistas next to garbage dumps patrolled by vultures and feral dogs. The beaches were plentiful and gorgeous; the blues and the temperature of the water unlike anything in Canada. The rain-forests filled with such diversity of flora but sweltering humidity. It was quite majestic and different, which in part is the beauty of travel.
A special highlight was near Valle de Bravo where we spent a full morning climbing a mountain by horse-back to view the colourful Mariposa Monarca butterfly. This species travels 3,000+ miles (and four generations) to their winter habitat, the Oyamel Fir tree almost 3600 meters high! The sight of millions of butterflies roosting on these trees for wamth is simply an incredible sight… almost worth the Mexico visit on its own. When they leave their resting spot in unison each morning you can actually hear the flutter of their delicate wings.
With so many UNESCO world heritage sites and a rich history, stemming both from a multitude of indigenous tribes (with their colouful costume and dance ceremonies) and the Spanish colonization, we simply ran out of time before we ran out of choice.
And Mexico City, despite our expectation, was not a smoggy pollution-filled metropolis but rather beautiful, cosmopolitan and upscale. San Miguel de Allende, Taxco, Guanajuato, Mineral del Monte, Patzcuaro and many other cities and towns are special, with their own unique character and sights.
Wealth and privilege next to poverty and filth, street workers using rudimentary tools, domestic animals running free in the streets…yet people seemed happy and content.
We settled nicely and comfortably into this strange but beautiful place. We travelled by local bus and were part of the locals but followed the rules of safety suggested by travel sites. We enjoyed the many differences from life in Canada. We met and enjoyed travellers from other countries… in other words, we fit right in!
Our friends and family in Canada may have been surprised that we had decided to travel to Mexico at all, but I bet they’re even more surprised by the decision we came to after almost five months in this confounding and addictive country:
YES, we have decided to return and further explore this country of stunning contrasts. We have left our RV in a safe and protected storage facility for the interim and will return to Mexico in late fall to resume part two of our adventure. Perhaps the Yucatan or Baja Peninsula will be our itinerary… it doesn‘t matter… both will be incredible and memorable.
And so, dear friends, family, and strangers reading about our time Rving in Mexico, I must steal a line from my world-traveling daughter. Go, always go. I’m sure glad I did.
Leslie Brown - I have a small piece of art hanging on my wall that says…
“To travel is to live”
You two have so many dreams and so much courage. It is awesome!
Brittany - Love that quote and I totally agree that my parents are doing it! 🙂
Christophe & Louise Surette - Nice rendition of your Mexican adventure. Sooo good to read that you will be returning…exploring should never end‼️Hope to see you in Grand-Barachois this summer.
Brittany - Their daughter is pretty happy they’ve chosen to let the adventures continue, too! 🙂
Elizabeth S - Love it but then I could be a little biased:). Indeed, you captured all that our travel adventure was.
Brittany - I sort of like these guest posts – wish I could convince you to give another perspective! 🙂