The Sultanate of Oman and its Forts

In 1498, Vasco da Gama and his Portuguese fleet made history when they successfully rounded the Cape of Good Hope. What history poorly recorded was that it was only with indispensible help from an Omani sailor that the Cape was ever overcome. Vasco da Gama thanked his Omani sailor a few years later by invading Oman, which had now become a strategic trade route port. Oman suffered almost two hundred years of Portuguese occupation.

Before visiting Oman, I didn’t know a thing about its history. I’d been drawn to its exotic location and intrigued by Bruno’s photos from his time here a decade ago – photos of turquoise water, rocky crags, and lush oases in the middle of red desert dunes.

I knew that Oman was photogenic. I didn’t know that it had so many photogenic forts. Thanks to Vasco da Gama, Oman is filled with them.

Bruno and I are biking through Old Muscat and Muttrah, the two historic centers of Oman’s capital. A corniche links the two, and we ride leisurely along it, stopping frequently for photos of the stunningly rugged coastline.

Al-Jalali Fort suddenly comes into view, its tan façade built out of the rocky outcrop. It is almost indistinguishable from its surroundings, but for the geometric turret rising out of the rock. Our eyes, now knowing what to look for, make out another fort at the other end of this tiny inlet – that of Al-Mirani. Later on our bike ride, we will spot Muttrah Fort, built even more impressively into its rock foundation.

These three forts are officially the only remnants of the Portuguese occupation in Oman. The Portuguese weren’t interested in Oman’s resources and didn’t venture into its interior. But they defended their strategic coastline position fiercely, building in the 1580s these three forts.

Unofficially, however, the Portuguese influenced future architecture and defense throughout Oman. Almost every town in the country sports a fort; though some date back to the 12^th century, most were constructed after Oman regained its independence and use the design of its occupiers. We had already visited two such medieval examples – Nakhal Fort and Rustaq Fort – and had marvelled at the similarities they shared with forts and castles we have visited in Europe.

The views beyond the tower windows, however, bore little resemblance to forts in Europe. From the towers of Rustaq and Nakhal Forts, we could see the barren Hajar Mountains surrounding bright green date palm oases. The palms partially obscured white-washed homes all featuring the crenelated roofs, turrets pointing upwards, and low parapet walls of their famous medieval forts.

Even in Muscat, a view from the top of Muttrah Fort showed us the same low, crenelated, turreted skyline. In the Arab Gulf, where cities like Dubai, Doha, and Damman build skyscrapers like we grow fingernails, Muscat’s architecture is surprising. The Portuguese left quite a legacy indeed, it seemed to me.

My reading tells me that Sultan Qaboos has made a concerted effort to keep his country connected to tradition. Even though he is almost singlehandedly responsible for the speedy modernization of his country – which was a backwater state less than fifty years ago – Sultan Qaboos has made it unofficial law that new buildings to be built in the traditional style, including pointy-tipped windows covered with ornate mashrabiyyas, and, of course, crenellation, turreted roofs, and parapets.

There is no Burj Khalifa in Muscat. Even the city’s Grand Mosque looks rather plain from the outside. After having experienced the breathtaking exterior of Abu Dhabi’s Grand Mosque – which included pure gold and unblemished white marble – I was a tad underwhelmed by Muscat’s seemingly uninspired interpretation.

That’s probably why my jaw dropped when I entered the prayer hall. I hadn’t expected the simple exterior to be hiding such an ornate ceiling. The semi-spherical dome sparkled with jewels of every color in miniscule, intricate designs. I had never seen a chandelier so large, and Bruno couldn’t get far enough away from the domed ceiling to photograph the entire thing. Maybe there was something to Sultan Qaboos’ architectural vision, after all.

Our bike ride along the corniche takes us to Muttrah Souq, one of the oldest markets in the country. In many ways, it is a typical Arab souq. For sale are dishdashas and prayer caps for men, kohl and henna for women. For the tourists there are pashmina scarves, kitsch khanjars (Omani tribal curved hand daggars), and sheesha water pipes.

It is not an especially large market, and not particularly impressive after having visited the Omdurman Souq in Khartoum, but there is something about this place that makes my imagination run wild. Perhaps it is the earthy scent of frankincense, burned on coals outside most of the stalls, wafting into my nostrils and intoxicating my senses. I think of the Three Kings, one of whom brought frankincense as a gift for baby Jesus, and wonder if that king had come from Oman, or if perhaps his gift had arrived on one of the legendary camel caravans that originated in Oman and traveled to Europe, Persia, and beyond.

Oman certainly is mystical, I ponder as I stop in the center of Muttrah Souq. Men actually wrap their heads in proper turbans here. They have an actual sultan – heck, the country is called the Sultanate of Oman! The legend of Aladdin must have been set here. I picture Aladdin stealing a loaf of bread from the bakery down the alleyway ahead, and imagine him hopping up to the roof of a nearby home, singing “One Jump” as he swings himself from rooftop to rooftop. It’s a good thing the Portuguese came to Oman, I decide. If they hadn’t, Aladdin would have had to climb a lot higher to reach that first rooftop!

As Bruno and I ride our bikes back toward our campsite on the outskirts of Muscat, I think about my educational introduction to Oman. Between the surprise welcome at the border, the bush camping in the mountains and along the coast, the medieval forts, and the sightseeing in Muscat, I know now that Oman is more than just a photogenic country. I can’t wait to head down the coast tomorrow and see what more is in store for us here. My educated guess posits a few turtles, a wadi or two, and yes, more forts!